Back to the Weekly Home Page

Classifieds

Palo Alto Online

Tamarine a treasure

by Dale F. Bentson

Vietnamese cooking differs from that of its neighbors, being the lightest of all Southeast Asian cuisines. Chinese technique and French artfulness are incorporated with Indian herbs and spices to create a flavorful palette. The result: subtle, complex and sophisticated food, utilizing native ingredients.

"The idea of the restaurant is more than just food; it is a dining style with small tasty plates to be shared communal style," said Le, who holds a degree in East Asian history.

Huvnh, who also holds a doctorate in pharmacology, learned her cooking skills from her mother, Chac Do, who migrated to the United States years ago. She also operated two restaurants (Vung Tau) with her mother, one in San Jose, the other in Milpitas.

Tamarine's decor embodies lush yet subdued earth tones. Linen table cloths, polished wood molding, opaque glass and mellow jazz bring a soothing hush to the candle-lit dining room. Yet there is also an intangible here that nurtures the spirit and enriches the palate.

Many dishes at Tamarine are family hand-me-downs, adjusted and stylized for contemporary palates. The shrimp spring rolls ($6), one of a half-dozen starters, are soft salad rolls filled with shrimp, pork, bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (more peppery than sweet), chives and lettuce, accompanied by a Hoisin dipping sauce. I was surprised that the taste of each ingredient was discernable in my mouth. I expected the seafood, the sauce or the mint to be the dominant flavor, but I was amazed to find each in perfect harmony on my happy tongue.

Wild leaf tuna ($8), fresh wild tea leaves served with ahi sashimi, chili, lime, ginger, peanuts and roasted coconut flakes, gave me the same harmonious impression. This was so with all 24 different items I sampled for this review, including six different infused rice offerings ($2 each) presented in beautifully wrapped banana leaves.

Nine items comprise the soups, salads and noodles category. Our favorites were Saigon bun salad ($12), featuring grilled shrimp and pork loin served with rice noodles, lettuce, bean sprouts, mint and peanuts -- just oozing with flavor. Farmer's soup ($8), a light chicken stock of ground shrimp, tofu and Chinese chives, was tasty and nourishing. Angus lime salad ($12) was delectable, with lime-cured Black Angus beef tossed with sweet red grapes, onions, carrots, mint and chilies.

Small-plate entrees are knockouts. Wok-crisped salt-and-pepper calamari ($15), set in a mix of garlic, butter and spring onions, was so good I pray it be the last dish I taste before I pass through the pearly gates of heaven.

Also noteworthy is the shaking beef ($19), Black Angus tenderloin wok-tossed with garlic, onion and black pepper, served on a bed of vinaigrette-dressed watercress salad. The beef was so tender I thought it would melt on my fork. And earth pot catfish ($15), served in a garlic, onion, black pepper and fish sauce reduction, would bring tears to the eyes of many a Cajun chef.

There are other toothsome entrees too. I wanted to savor all evening the glazed pork chops ($18), grilled in an onion, garlic and lemongrass glaze and served with mashed purple yams. Tri-squash scallop curry ($17), served with a trio of kabocha ( a winter squash), banana and zucchini squash, was so mouthwatering I wanted to order it for dessert too.

These "small plate" entrees aren't really all that small, so be careful when ordering. Le and Huvnh, who are collaborating on new recipes, plan to adjust the menu monthly, as the seasons change. Lamb, duck and quail dishes will be added for the winter months.

For dessert there are a half-dozen selections, ranging from $5 for the sweet, intensely flavored and aromatic lychee sorbet, to the sumptuous beggar's purse ($7), a crepe filled with caramelized pears in an orange reduction, served atop a coffee creme anglaise spiked with pistachio nuts. My favorite were the crispy chocolate ganache won tons ($6.50), filled with melted chocolate, banana and mint served atop a raspberry coulis with vanilla ice cream. I know all the dishes at Tamarine are meant to be shared, but I got a little territorial with many of mine.

Tamarine has just introduced an expanded wine list categorized by varietal, rather than by state or country of origin. An example is the Chardonnay category, which offers three wines from California, one French and one Italian. There are nine white and nine red categories, with labels from practically every wine-growing region of the world. This is good idea for this kind of restaurant, making it easier to match wine with food.

The wines are fairly priced, too, with no table wine exceeding $90 (York, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995); most fall into the $20 -- $40 range (Tempranillo, Marques de Riscal Reserva, Rioja, 1998 at $32 is an excellent price.) There is a nice selection of sparkling wines, dessert wines, half- bottles and wines by the glass. Tamarine has a full bar, a martini list and offers 16 single-malt scotches.

The wait staff is friendly and allowed to have a personality. My one complaint was that some of the wait staff could not describe all the dishes, other than to say they are all very good. Not every diner is acquainted with Vietnamese cuisine and I wanted a little more background information.

Those curious about Vietnamese art will not be disappointed. Le and Huvnh have traveled to Vietnam and acquired 14 pieces from six different artists which grace the restaurant's walls. Next May there will be a silent auction, with one every six months thereafter. The profits will go to La Maison Chance (House of Hope), an orphanage for handicapped children in Ho Chi Minh City.