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Queen Elizabeth II called 1992 her annus horribilis. If
you talk to Bay Area restaurateurs, they'd probably use
"horrible year" to describe their business today. The
atrophied economy, the lack of tourists and the crazy politics
have conspired to make many operators wonder why they continue
to open their doors each day.
Yet, from a diner's perspective the picture seems rosier.
While fewer places opened last year than in previous years,
many old standbys have sharpened their focus. Campton Place
made a major change and brought in Daniel Humm, a bright young
chef from Switzerland, after Laurent Manrique, Campton's
previous chef, moved to Aqua. Mecca hired a new chef, Stephen
Barber, and he's reinvigorated the cutting-edge supper club
atmosphere. Fork, the popular San Anselmo spot, expanded and
the food has gotten even better.
In most cases, the restaurants that opened were smaller and
more personal, including 1550 Hyde and Quince, both in San
Francisco. However, we've also had a few notable splashy
openings such as Town Hall in the SoMa area and Poggio in
Sausalito.
As a general rule, the tight economy has meant improved
service, menus that have become safer and prices that have
remained relatively stable. This year, as the effect of San
Francisco's new living-wage law begins to kick in, prices will
probably rise.
Only two of last year's Top 100 closed - Julia and
Elisabeth Daniel - but as in other years, about 20 percent of
the list is new this year. Some places from last year's list
have stagnated, and other older restaurants have improved,
which accounts for the changes. Slanted Door, one of the top
restaurants in the Bay Area, is not on this year's list simply
because it's in transition from its location on the
Embarcadero to a much larger operation in the Ferry Building.
Over the past eight years that I've been compiling the Top
100, I've seen a maturing of the "California" style. In
Northern California, we'redeveloping a cuisine as distinctive
as in other food meccas like New Orleans. It's driven by
ingredients rather than technique, and is based on the flavors
of the Mediterranean - often with a dash of Asia thrown in. It
feels organic, not forced - and more importantly, it's right
for the climate and the population.
The Bay Area has been a pioneer in small-plates dining, and
our love affair continues; even the more traditional
restaurants are increasing their offerings. In San Francisco
alone, Indian, Spanish, French, Moroccan and Asian restaurants
play with this theme. When picking the Top 100, I try to
choose a wide range of cuisine types, price categories,
restaurant styles and locations. Still, the list is heavily
weighted toward San Francisco, which remains the Bay Area's
crown jewel for dining. For all its affluence and rapid
growth, Contra Costa County's new restaurants aren't as
refined and focused as those found in other areas. That
doesn't mean the restaurants aren't good, but they generally
don't break new ground or surpass the standards of other
places around the Bay Area.
With such a rich panoply of restaurants from which to
choose, there's bound to be worthy places that have escaped my
attention. I'd love to hear about them. During the past year,
readers have given me some great tips and alerted me to
restaurants that have maintained their stellar status, as well
as those that need to be re-examined.
About the guide: The restaurants are listed in alphabetical
order. We've also included a directory of restaurants by
cuisine, and maps to help pinpoint their location. The prices
listed show the range of main courses at dinners; lunch is
often less. The noise ratings are as follows:
Pleasantly quiet (under 65 decibels)
Can
talk easily (65-70)
Talking normally gets difficult (70-75)
Can
only talk in raised voices (75-80)
Too
noisy for normal conversation (80+)
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